Sunday, November 2, 2008

Jerusalem

There is no public computer access at the 7 Arches Hotel anymore (just wireless in the lobby, which doesn't help me), so it has been a couple of days before we had a chance to get away to an internet cafe in the Old City. One dollar for half an hour; not bad!

So much has happened since I last posted that it would be impossible to chronicle everything here, so I'll just hit the highlights:

We did not end up doing homestays in Zababida. Instead, we stayed at a hostel run by the Palestinian Agricultural Relief Committee (PARC). That was a little disappointing, but we did have ample opportunity to talk with local people. The first night we were in town a few of us went into a coffee shop after dinner and met a number of young men in their late teens and early twenties; all students. Turns out that one of them lived in Rice Lake, Wisconsin for a year through the same program that Bruce and Cynthia's student came to them in 2004-2005. Same year, same program. It is a small, small world.

We spent two days harvesting olives, which was a fantastic experience. The olive harvest is in full swing right now and we worked on many many trees. On one of the days we had lunch in the field with the family whose olives we were picking; the other day we visited a women's economic cooperative and they fed us like royalty. Just as on my previous trip to Palestine, I marvel and am humbled by the generosity and hospitality of the people.

Last night we had dinner at the home of Ali Jaber and his family: wife Nariman, daughters Nada (14) and Nadeen (5), and sons Odai (12) and Kosai (10). They moved to a new apartment 10 days ago, their electricity wasn't yet fully hooked up, but they still entertained 15 people. It was quite something. They moved from their beautiful home in Al Ram (200 meters square) to the new apartment (half the size), because in order for the two youngest children to receive birth certificates that will allow them to obtain Jerusalem IDs, they have to live within a specific border (even though no such border actually exists on any map). Al Ram is just outside that border, even though it is considered East Jerusalem (don't try to figure it out--it makes no sense and there's no sense to be made). We passed through the checkpoint going and coming to Ali's. It is like going through a cattle run with 3 turnstyles (like you go through when you leave the State Fair) that the Israelis can freeze at any point. When we came through on our way to dinner there was a HUGE lineup of Palestinians waiting to get back into Jerusalem.

Today, after church at Redeemer in the Old City (underwhelming to say the least), we met with a woman from the Israeli Committee against Home Demolitions (ICAHD). We visited Salim and his wife Aribela whose home was demolished by Israeli bulldozers 4 times. Over and over and over Salim tried to get a permit to build, but the Kafkaesque system meant that 3 tries ($5,000 for each application) resulted in denial of permit, all for nonsensical reasons. Salim built anyway (wouldn't you?). The house was rebuilt for the fifth time, and is now used as a peace center (he and his family actually live in the same town now as Ali and his family). The Israelis have let it stand now that no one is living there. You can look at ICAHD's website if you'd like to learn more.

There are so many stories like Ali's and Salim's, and today especially has seemed very heavy with the reality of Palestinian life under occupation. On the other hand, the people we have met are welcoming and hospitable beyond belief, and ask us always to go back to the US and tell the truth about what is happening here. "Tell them we are not terrorists" is a common theme.

I'll be eager to share more photos when I get home; because I'm in an internet cafe I don't want to spend the time uploading photos. All is well. I'm healthy, have had great energy, and am getting enough sleep!

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